Eclissi del Cuore

Saturday morning, the views from breakfast were especially gorgeous.



Yesterday, we had planned to visit Positano, which is technically the first town that marks the Amalfi Coast (Sorrento is just on the other side of the cape, with pretty much the same rocky coast line). When we got to the bus station, the little old man behind the counter kept shaking his head and repeating “no!” when I requested two tickets to Positano. Hmmm. The sign above him clearly stated you could buy tickets to Positano here. Since the old man and I had about the same level of proficiency in each other’s language, we headed over to the tourist info center to find out what the deal was. A landslide was preventing any vehicles other than cars (and vespas, of course) from passing through. Since the ferry to Positano stops running mid October, our only other option was to hire a driver (or rent a car — not a realistic option with crazy drivers and crazy cliff side roads). So, it was back to the hotel to see if they could arrange for a driver to bring us to Positano. They could, for 135 euros. No thank you. Positano, it just wasn’t meant to be.

Instead, we decided to venture outside of the walls of Sorrento to the tiny fishing village, Marina Grande, at the base of the cliff. This place is far less touristy, and far more traditional than the town above.

20111030-101351.jpgan ancient Greek gate marks the boundary between the two towns



We got lunch at a little family-run place right on the water.


I couldn’t not order seafood here, but I also was not in the mood to battle prawn claws and clam shells, so I ordered the fried fish plate. My famous last words to Erin: “I probably won’t have to do any work, right? They wouldn’t just fry an entire fish?” How wrong I was.


20111030-101737.jpgWithin seconds, neighborhood cats surrounded me.

Erin got the comparatively plain, but still delicious, gnocchi di mamma.


After lunch, we wandered back into Sorrento for some cappuccino, dessert, and people watching on the main Piazza.



At siesta time, we walked back to the hotel and finally popped the bottle of champagne that had been waiting for us when we arrived.





We streamed some Italian radio and discovered that the number two song in Italy right now is a translated cover of Total Eclipse of the Heart. A couple of glasses of champagne later, and a few lucky friends back home were treated to our own rendition of Eclissi del Cuore.

We worked up quite an appetite serenading our friends, so we went back into town for dinner.


After dinner, we strolled the main drag, Via Corso Italia, which becomes a pedestrian zone after 7:30.



2 thoughts on “Eclissi del Cuore

  1. I know you are enjoying your last moments in Italy (at least for this trip), really does sound like the trip of a lifetime! We are so happy for you… Can’t wait to see you both!
    P.s Gues. Where Dad is?

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